Funding Guidelines

These guidelines outline CragSafe Foundation of British Columbia's ("CragSafe") criteria for funding hardware used for climbing route development and maintenance. These guidelines are not exhaustive. If you have questions about a project's eligibility, please contact us before starting work or submitting a claim. All Board of Directors' decisions are final.

1. Funding Priorities

Funding levels and needs vary by region, but the maintenance of existing rock climbing routes is always our top priority. We allocate funding according to the following priorities:

  • Maintenance: Replacing worn anchors and compromised bolts is always top priority.
  • New Routes: When funding allows for new routes, priority is given to developers who are actively maintaining existing routes.

2. Eligible Hardware

2.1 Bolts

  • Materials: All hardware must be 304 or 316 stainless steel, or an equivalent corrosion-resistant alloy. Non-austenitic stainless steels are not permitted.
  • Manufacturers: Hardware must be from reputable companies (e.g., Fixe, Petzl, Metolius, Madrock, Hilti, DeWalt).
  • Expansion Bolt Dimensions: Minimum diameter of 3/8" (~10 mm) and minimum length of 3" (~75 mm).
  • Glue-in Bolt Dimensions: Minimum embedment depth of 2 3/4" (~70 mm) in any rock type.

2.2 Anchors

  • Chains & Quick Links: Must have a minimum Safe Working Load (SWL) / Working Load Limit (WLL) of 1,500 lbs (~680 kg).
  • Stainless Steel: Stainless steel should be used in damp or coastal climates, but plated steel remains acceptable in dry, arid climates for components that are easy to visually inspect.
  • Threading Chain Link: Threading the rope directly through a chain link are not eligible for funding.
  • Aluminum: Aluminum rappel rings and carabiners are not eligible for funding.

2.3 Permadraws

  • Policy: Permadraws are discouraged unless absolutely necessary. All requests will be reviewed and approved by the Board of Directors on a case-by-case basis. The quantity funded is at the Board's discretion.
  • Quick Links: Quick links must be rated to 25kN.
  • Cable Draws: Commercially available cable permadraws. Amateur crimped cables are not eligible for funding..
  • Chain Draws: Chain must be rated to 25kN.
  • Carabiners: Steel or stainless steel capture carabiners. Aluminum carabiners are not eligible for funding..
  • Stainless Steel: Stainless steel should be used in damp or coastal climates, but plated steel remains acceptable in dry, arid climates for components that are easy to visually inspect.

3. Additional Criteria

3.1 General Standards

  • Location: Routes must be within CragSafe’s mandate areas in British Columbia. Consult the website or contact us regarding new development areas.
  • Status: Closed projects are not eligible. Funding is available only for routes open to the public.
  • Documentation: Route information must be added or updated on Mountain Project, including complete approach information, GPS coordinates of the area, a route description, protection details, and a photograph. Include the link to the route with your claim.
  • Safety: Take all appropriate precautions to protect yourself and the public during any work.

3.2 New Route Standards

  • Protection: Routes should be appropriately protected for an on-sight lead by a climber competent at the grade.
  • Cleaning: Routes must be cleaned of all loose rock, lichen, moss, and debris within the obvious climbing line.
  • Materials: Pitons and nylon webbing are not acceptable as permanent sport-route fixtures.
  • Spacing: Avoid "squeezing in" routes that interfere with established climbs.
  • Natural Rock: Chipping rock or attaching natural/artificial holds is strictly prohibited.

3.3 Retrofit Standards

  • Moving Bolts: Bolts should not be moved, added, or removed without explicit consent from the First Ascensionist. Retrofits performed without the explicit consent of the First Ascensionist may be denied funding.
  • Replacement: Consent should be sought, but is not required for replacement of aging hardware with new equivalent hardware in the same location.

4. Funding & Reimbursement

  • Wear and Tear: To cover depreciation on drills, batteries, and bits, CragSafe provides a flat rate of $1.00 per hole drilled.
  • Proof of Purchase: To receive full expense reimbursement, we require proof of purchase. If no receipt is provided, reimbursement will be limited to the lowest available discounted rate (e.g., bulk order or sale pricing) for equivalent hardware.
  • Reasonable Limits: CragSafe reserves the right to limit any reimbursement to the cost of the most economical, readily available equivalent hardware.
  • Glue (Epoxy): Reimbursement is calculated based on a minimum yield of 10 bolts per standard 300ml cartridge.
  • Funding Exclusivity: You may only claim reimbursement for hardware that has not been funded by another organization or grant. Additionally, any material costs claimed as an income tax deduction are ineligible for funding.

5. Application Process

  1. Complete the Funding Application Form found on the CragSafe website.
  2. Deadline: We review applications quarterly with deadlines on January 1st, April 1st, July 1st, and October 1st. Applicants will be contacted within one month following the deadline with next steps.
  3. Approval: A simple majority of the Board of Directors is required for claim approval.