Developer Resources

CragSafe Foundation of British Columbia is not a technical authority. It is the sole responsibility of the developer to adhere to established safe bolting practices and stay informed on evolving hardware standards. The following resources are provided without warranty or guarantee from seemingly reputable sources as a starting point for sharing information. We welcome feedback and additional resources from the community so all developers can benefit from shared knowledge.

1. Lower-Off Points

  • Rappel Rings: Rappel rings rotate freely, distributing rope wear around the entire ring, making them a durable option.

  • Quick Links: Quick links are easy to replace and provide two distinct rope wear points by flipping them. Because a quick link loses significant strength if the gate is open, it should always be tightened with a wrench to prevent accidental loosening.

    • Certification: While industrial quick links (ASME B30.26) use a 5:1 safety factor to achieve a minimum breaking strength (MBS) of 25 kN from a 1,120 lb working load limit (WLL), they have lower quality control standards [1]. Certified climbing links (EN 12275 Class Q / UIAA 121) mandate independent factory auditing, strict batch traceability, cross-loading ratings, and tighter tolerances on gate threads to prevent the sleeve from siezing or loosening [2].

  • Carabiners & Mussy Hooks: Fixed carabiners have a single wear point, causing them to wear out relatively quickly. They are also often used for top-roping, further accelerating their wear.

  • Chain Links: Threading directly through a chain link is discouraged, as either a grinder or bolt cutters are required to remove the last link when it becomes worn, making them relatively difficult to maintain.

Sources

2. Anchor Configurations

See the following resources to ensure anchors avoid twisting or pinching the climbing rope.

  • Twisting: Avoid configurations where the lower-off points are at the same height but horizontally spaced. Extending the anchor with chain so they come together at a single point, or staggering the lower-off points vertically both help to reduce twisting.
  • Pinching: Avoid configurations where the lower-off points lie flat against the rock face, which can cause the rope to pinch against the wall, leading to significant rope drag and the potential for stuck ropes.

Sources

3. Permadraws

  • Mechanical Loosening: Hangers on permadraws are not clipped directly, which can allow them to loosen over time without climbers noticing.
  • Lock Washers: Some developers recommend lock washers to help prevent this loosening.
  • No Aluminum: Aluminum wears much faster than steel and can develop sharp edges quickly.

Sources